Understanding Hyperpigmentation and Melasma

Hyperpigmentation and Melasma: The Skin therapist's Perspective

As skincare experts, we are constantly striving to understand and address the diverse range of skin concerns that our clients face. Two common yet challenging issues that we often encounter are hyperpigmentation and melasma. In this article, we will delve into these conditions from a skin therapist's point of view.

Firstly, it is crucial to differentiate between the triggers behind hyperpigmentation and melasma.

Hyperpigmentation is the term used to describe darkened areas of the skin caused by an excess production of melanin. These dark spots can be triggered by factors such as sun exposure, inflammation, or skin injuries. When a cell's DNA is damaged, it essentially disrupts the cell's instruction manual for reproduction. Melanogenesis, the body's process of creating and producing melanin, plays a crucial role in shielding our cells from DNA damage. The process happens as follows: 

1. Melanocytes are the cells responsible for producing melanin. Melanocytes are dendritic cells meaning they have long arms that reach up into the Stratum Spinosum. 
2. Melanosomes are tiny granules of pigment released by the melanocyte.
3. When the melanocyte detects tyrosinase it releases melanosomes to travel along the dendritic arms into the stratum spinosum.
4. Melanosomes then position themselves over the nucleus of cells in the stratum spinosum. This is a protective mechanism aimed at preventing DNA damage. Think of them as an umbrella over our nucleus.  
5. When damage to our melanocyte happens, it can start to leak melanosomes (pigment) resulting in patches of darkened skin.

Appearance

Think freckles, sun spots and age spots. They can appear anywhere on the body.

UV Damage Solutions

Protecting your skin from UV damage is crucial for addressing hyperpigmentation. Start by using a physical SPF instead of a chemical one to prevent further free radical damage. Incorporating active ingredients like Vitamin A, Vitamin B3,Vitamin C and Lactic acid can further help in treating hyperpigmentation.

Melasma is influenced by hormonal changes, such as Pregnancy, HRT or hormonal contraception. Medication such as hormone contraception, anti-depressants, HRT can lead to the production of higher amounts of Melanin Stimulating Hormone (MSH).

MSH will then release more tyrosinase triggering melanogenesis.

Around 25-30% of women are pre disposed to producing excess levels of MSH.

Appearance

Melasma generally appears as symmetrical dark patches on the upper lip, forehead and cheeks. Melasmas borders won't be as defined as hyperpigmentation.

Melasma is the term used when the client is not pregnant. Chloasma is the term used when the client is pregnant.

Melasma Solutions

Recommending a physical SPF is important as UV rays can aggravate Melasma. Although the trigger must be addressed to fully treat melasma.

Understanding the root causes of these conditions is essential in developing effective treatment plans. 

When discussing treatment options with our clients, transparency is key. It is crucial to manage expectations and emphasize that improving hyperpigmentation and melasma often requires consistent, long-term efforts. Encouraging patience and diligence is fundamental in guiding our clients towards realistic and achievable outcomes.

Conclusion